Hail damage repair – what to do, what it costs, and when to claim

You walk out after a storm and your car is covered in dimples. The roof, the bonnet, maybe the doors too. It looks worse than it probably is, but you have no idea where to start.

This guide walks you through the process. How to assess the damage, what the repair options are, what they cost, and whether it’s worth claiming on insurance.

Assess the damage before you do anything else

Not all hail damage is the same. Before you call anyone, take a proper look at your car in good light. Overcast conditions work best. If you’re checking at night, hold a torch at a low angle across each panel. The shadows will reveal dents you can’t see straight on.

You’re looking at three broad levels:

Minor damage – small, shallow dents where the paint is intact. No creases, no cracking. This is the most common result after a typical Melbourne storm. It looks bad but it’s usually the easiest and cheapest to fix. 

Moderate damage – larger dents across multiple panels, with some paint cracking or chipping. The roof and bonnet tend to cop the worst of it because they face the sky. 

Severe damage – deep dents with creased metal, cracked or flaking paint, a cracked windscreen, and damage to trim, mirrors, or lights. This is what serious hailstorms with golf-ball-sized stones leave behind. 

Take photos of everything while you’re at it. Wide shots of each panel, close-ups of individual dents, and photos of any cracked glass or damaged trim. You’ll need these if you claim on insurance, and they’re useful when getting a repair quote. 

How hail damage gets repaired

This catches a lot of people out. In Victoria, if nobody is injured and both parties exchange details, police may not attend and may not produce a formal report. That does not mean the crash is unrecorded or unimportant. It means the onus falls on the drivers to document everything properly.

For non-urgent police assistance, Victoria Police operates the Police Assistance Line on 131 444 and accepts online reports for certain matters.

There are situations where a police report becomes essential: if the other driver leaves the scene, refuses to hand over details, or if there is any suspicion that alcohol or drugs are involved. In those cases, report it without delay.

There are two main repair methods, and many hail jobs use a combination of both.
Mercedes Roof hail damage

Paintless dent repair (PDR)

PDR is the preferred method for hail damage when the paint is still intact. A technician accesses the back of each panel and uses specialised tools to massage the metal back into its original shape. No filler, no repainting, no colour matching.

It works when the paint hasn’t cracked or chipped, the dents are round and shallow without sharp creases, and the panel is accessible from behind. Not every panel is equally easy to reach, which is why some dents are better suited to PDR than others.

For a single dent, PDR typically costs between $80 and $250 depending on size and location. For a car with minor hail damage across several panels, you’re generally looking at $500 to $1,500 for the full repair.

The main advantage beyond cost is that your car keeps its original factory paint. No colour matching, no blending, no risk of a visible repair line.

Traditional panel repair and respray

When the paint is damaged, the dents are too deep, or the metal is creased, PDR won’t do the job. Traditional repair involves stripping the affected panel, reshaping or filling the damage, priming, painting, applying clear coat, and blending the colour into adjacent panels so the repair is invisible.

This is more involved and more expensive. For moderate hail damage across a few panels, expect $1,000 to $5,000. Severe damage involving panel replacement, windscreen repair, and full respray can push costs well past $5,000, and in the worst cases above $10,000.

PDR vs traditional repair at a glance

 PDRTraditional Repair
Best forShallow dents with intact paintDeep dents, creased metal, cracked paint
What’s involved Metal massaged from behind the panel Strip, reshape, fill, prime, paint, clear coat 
Original paint kept YesNo – panel is resprayed and blended 
Cost (minor hail) $500 – $1,500 $1,000 – $5,000 
Cost (severe hail) Not Suitable$5,000 – $10,000+ 
Cost (severe hail) Hours to a few days One to four weeks 
LimitationsWon’t work on cracked paint, sharp creases, or panel edges Higher cost, longer off the road, colour matching required 

A good panel beater will explain which method suits each panel and why. You might get PDR on the roof and doors where the paint held up, and traditional repair on the bonnet where it cracked. The goal is always the best result for each section of damage. 

Should you claim on insurance?

This is where most people get stuck. The answer depends on what cover you have, how much your excess is, and how bad the damage is. 

What’s covered

Only comprehensive car insurance covers hail damage. If you have third-party property damage or third-party fire and theft, hail isn’t included. Check your Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) for the detail on what your policy covers and any exclusions or embargo periods that might apply. 

After a major storm, your insurer may declare a catastrophe event. This doesn’t change your cover, but it does mean longer wait times. When thousands of claims come in at once, assessors and repairers are stretched thin across the region. The sooner you lodge, the sooner you get into the queue. 

You also have the right to choose your own repairer in Victoria. Your insurer may recommend one of their preferred repairers, but the decision is yours. 

When claiming makes sense

If the damage spans multiple panels and the repair bill is in the thousands, claiming is usually the right call. You’ll pay your excess, typically $500 to $800, and the insurer covers the rest. 

When it might not

If the damage is minor and PDR will fix it for $300 to $600, the cost may sit close to or below your excess. Paying out of pocket keeps the claim off your record and avoids any potential impact on your premiums at renewal. 

The write-off risk for older vehicles

If the repair cost approaches your car’s market value, the insurer may declare it a write-off. They pay out the market value minus your excess instead of repairing it. This is worth knowing before you lodge a claim. If your car is valued at $8,000 and the repair comes in at $7,000, the insurer may decide it’s not worth fixing. 

What to expect timeline-wise

Hail repairs take longer than standard collision work. After a major storm, every panel beater in the area is dealing with dozens or hundreds of damaged vehicles at once. 

For minor PDR-only repairs without an insurance claim, you could be looking at a few days. For multi-panel traditional repairs going through insurance, the timeline stretches. Assessor availability, parts lead times, and workshop backlogs can push a moderate repair out to two to four weeks during a busy storm season, sometimes longer. 

Melbourne’s eastern suburbs are no stranger to severe storms. If a big one has just swept through Box Hill, Canterbury, or Surrey Hills, expect demand for repairers to spike. The earlier you book an assessment, the earlier you’re in the queue. 

What to do right now

  • Document everything. Photograph all the damage in good light, with wide shots and close-ups. Note the date, time, and where the car was parked when the storm hit.
  • Don’t try to fix it yourself. The suction cups and hair dryer tricks you find online risk stretching the metal or damaging the paint. That turns a straightforward PDR job into a more expensive traditional repair.
  • Check your windscreen. If it’s cracked, don’t drive until it’s been assessed. A cracked windscreen can fail under pressure, even from a speed bump.
  • Contact your insurer early if the damage is significant.Lodge the claim before you know the full extent of the damage. You can provide updated photos later, but getting into the system early means an assessor reaches you sooner.
  • Get a professional assessment.A good repairer will tell you honestly what can be fixed with PDR, what needs traditional repair, and whether the damage is worth claiming. They’ll also spot things you might miss, like dents in hard-to-see areas, hairline paint cracks, or damaged trim.

Bring your car into Surrey Accident Repair Centre on Canterbury Road, Surrey Hills for a straightforward assessment. We’ll walk you through your options and help you decide whether to claim or pay privately. 

Hail damage repair service

Frequently Asked Questions

Repairing hail damage before selling can make sense if the car is otherwise in good condition and the repair cost is likely to be lower than the value lost at sale. Visible hail dents can make buyers assume the car has been neglected, even when the damage is cosmetic. 

It may not be worth repairing every dent before sale. If the car is older, already has high kilometres or has a low market value, the repair cost may not return enough extra sale value. In that case, it may be better to get a repair quote first, then decide whether to repair it, disclose the damage, or adjust the asking price.

Hail damage can reduce trade-in value because the dealer has to allow for repair cost, resale risk and the possibility of hidden damage. Even shallow dents across the roof, bonnet and boot can make the car harder for a dealer to present on the lot. 

A trade-in assessor will usually look at the number of damaged panels, whether the paint is cracked, whether the glass or trim is affected, and whether the car would need PDR or traditional panel repair. A repair quote before trade-in can help you understand whether the dealer's deduction is reasonable. 

Many buyers will still care, even if the hail damage is cosmetic. Dents across the roof or bonnet are easy to notice in the right light, and buyers may use them to negotiate the price down. 

Cosmetic hail damage is less serious than cracked paint, broken glass or damaged trim, but it still affects presentation. A professional assessment can tell you whether paintless dent repair is possible and whether the original factory paint can be kept.

Claiming on insurance before selling may make sense if the damage is significant and the repair cost is well above your excess. It may not make sense if the repair cost is close to the excess or if the car's market value is low enough that a claim could raise write-off questions. 

Before lodging a claim, check your Product Disclosure Statement and ask your insurer how the claim may affect your excess, premiums, no-claim discount and repair pathway. If you are unsure, get a hail damage assessment first so you understand the likely repair cost.

You can sell a car with unrepaired hail damage, but the damage should be disclosed clearly to the buyer. Good photos and an honest description reduce the risk of disputes and help the buyer understand what they are looking at. 

If you are selling privately, take photos in good light from several angles so the dents are visible. If you already have a repair quote, providing it can help buyers make a more informed decision and may stop them from assuming the damage is worse than it is. 

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